GARAGE STOP41A5034 Safety Sensor Eyes Only, Compatible with Craftsman Liftmaster Sears Chamberlain Garage Door Openers After 1997, Garage Door Sensor Replacement Kit

I bought these to replace the original OEM sensors installed ten years ago. I had tried shielding techniques for sunlight interference but the root cause is that the OEM sensors deteriorated with age. (This was surprising because I have another garage built in 1996 with the same sunlight aspect and they have no trouble with sunlight.) I like that the new sensors have bright LEDS whereas the old ones were barely visible. The only question I have is how long they will last, but because the OEM sensors clearly deteriorate, I think aftermarket is worth a shot.

Worked as expected for my LiftMaster

If I could give 0 stars I would. I’m a professional garage door repair tech and I am very disappointed with this product and seller. I got these to help a friend out off the clock in an attempt to save them money and that back fired. These are not OEM LiftMaster sensors even though they advertise the full part number in the discussion (deceptive sales tactics). The hardware that came with the sensors were not threaded so they couldn’t be used. Luckily I had extras from work. After splicing the wires black to black and white to white none of the sensors worked on either of the 2 doors. I then revered the splices to make sure a polarity mistake didn’t happen from the factory, this also didn’t work. I then plugged the sensors directly into both motor terminals to rule out logic board and the wiring to the opener being a possible issue. Nothing worked. So we went to Home Depot and bought the Chamberlain sensors and they worked on first install, came with useable hardware, and were legit OEM as advertised. If only one set didn’t work I’d say it’s a fluke but both is just a bad product and waste of time attempting multiple ways to make them work. This job should have been 15-20 min but took almost 2 hours with the Home Depot trip factored in. Hopefully this review saves you from wasting your time.

Honestly the only reason I’m not returning as broken is based on the reviews here.White wire goes to black on this kit. Keep that in mind and it works great so far.Old sensors wouldn’t close the garage if there was any sunlight hitting the sensor. I’d tried aligning and making sun shades and it just wouldn’t work so we had to hold the button down constantly in daytime to close.Installed new sensors and they close right up. As with anything, time will tell. All said install is easy enough regardless of terrible directions and nonsense wiring. Black stipe should go to black stripe. It’s an easy manufacturer fix.

A garage sensor malfunction can be an anxiety-inducing experience. Do I need a new opener? Did the entire device fail? Did Alexa destroy it? A lot of times, it could be that the two sensors near the garage door base have failed. This will do the trick. You don't need to replace the entire wiring to do this.TIPS -Make sure you cut the power first...you can do this by removing the sensor wires from the garage door opener housing (no need to power down the house).Unscrew the sensors from the brackets.Before you start cutting, make sure you measure how much line you need to connect the new sensor to the old wire. Always leave way more than you need, since you can always bind the wires with a zip line.Now, using wire strippers, you will need to remove about one inch of the coating on both sets of wires (the new sensor and the old wiring). Here is where it's tricky - one part of the wire is white, and one is striped. if you match them up, they should work, but I know some people had to flip them.Once the wires are connected, you can then go ahead and plug the wires back into the opener housing. What I found was only one of the sensors lit up, and I could never get the other one to stay lit. DUH!!!!! You will need to line them up for them both to get full power. Once they both light up, reattach the, to the bracket, and you should be good to go. Works perfectly...

The media could not be loaded. Just as others noted and I had read the reviews to know when installing, the wires on the new units are labeled/color coded wrong.My existing wiring is all white and white with a black stripe. The black stripe is often the negative indicator. The white and black wire on the units which are also marked with a negative symbol, needed to be connected to the solid white wire of my existing wiring. The white positive wire on the units I connected to the white with black stripe existing wire and BINGO! Hand in front of the one with the green light and the green light goes out.Finished up my wiring connections and then mounted the units which fit in my existing brackets. Could have been a 10 minutes job without the wiring testing but still only 20 mins.I still don't know which is the emiter and which is the receiver but the green light is the only one that goes on/off. The amber light stays on all the time.

Sensors did not work when I hooked them up to a working garage door opener.These are coded with one wire with a black strip and a - signthe other wire is all white with a + sign.The original sensors are coded with one wire with a black strip and is the + leadthe other wire is all white and is the ground lead.I reversed the wires and the sensors now work.Compare wires coming out of the old and new sensors.

Great replacement safety eyes for the garage door. Splice the wiring into your existing wiring and don’t touch the wires at the back of the garage door opener. Before you make permanent connections, just twist the wires together and determine that you have the polarity correct. On one side, you’ll know because you’ll get a solid light and then on the other side you’ll know if it doesn’t operate the garage door. You probably have your wires backwards. But make all your adjustments near these eyes and not on the back of your garage door opener, just a suggestion.